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The popularity of rabbits as household pets is on the rise. According to the 2017-2018 APPA National Pet Owners Survey, “rabbits continue to be the most popular type of small animal; owned by 43 percent of small animal owners.” That was an increase from the previous National Pet Owners Survey and the highest level reported in a decade. Pet rabbits remain a favorite of small-pet owners.

Read on to learn more, and remember: If work or travel keeps you from home, always choose a professional pet sitter for your pet-sitting needs. You can find your local professional pet sitter on PSI's Pet Sitter Locator.

The Hare and Now of Rabbits

Although rabbits were once categorized as rodents because of certain dental similarities, they are now classified as members of the order of Lagomorpha and are often confused with another group of lagomorphs, the hares. It's interesting to note that while rabbits are born completely helpless, naked and blind, hares come into the world covered with fur, are able to see and can live independently only one hour after birth! Other differences between the two include head and leg size, diet and sociability. Rabbits are generally smaller, prefer softer foods and are able to be tamed more readily. They are also further divided into several genera and species, including Oryctolagus cuniculus - the species from which all domestic rabbits have descended.

According to the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA), there are more than 45 recognized breeds of rabbits, which can range in size from approximately two to 15 pounds and live an average of five to 10 years (if they are spayed or neutered.)

Although pet rabbits in the United States do not require any vaccinations, veterinarians in the United Kingdom and other parts of Europe routinely inoculate for two fatal viruses common to the continent's wild rabbits: Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD). Myxomatosis spread to the UK after being introduced intentionally into France (and Australia) to control the wild rabbit population. Myxomatosis is also currently seen, albeit rarely, along the U.S. Pacific coast. It is contagious by direct contact with other rabbits as well as through insect (mosquito) bites.

VHD, also known as RHD (Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease) and RDC (Rabbit Calicivirus Disease), was also intended to be a biological control agent for a swelling rabbit population abroad. It has recently made rare occurrences in the United States. Like Myxomatosis, RHD is spread by direct contact, but it can also survive for up to three months on contaminated surfaces such as clothing and bedding. Australians vaccinate for VHD; however, they do not currently have access to the Myxomatosis vaccine.

What's more, all rabbits are susceptible to Pasteurella bacteria, for which there currently is no vaccine. The bacteria enters the rabbit's system through nasal passages or open wounds. Rabbits with strong immune systems usually fight off the bacteria; however, they can also become carriers. Those bunnies that do develop Pasteurellosis will usually show signs of upper respiratory infection and should be treated with antibiotics before the infection spreads to vital organs. A veterinarian trained in "exotics" is your best source for keeping your rabbit healthy and protected.

Hippity Hoppity!

Rabbits are most often adopted from breeders, pet stores or shelters, depending on what an individual is looking for in a pet. If you're intending to show your rabbit or looking for a particular or uncommon breed, do some research first and then seek out a qualified breeder. Breeders can offer a wealth of information on all your rabbit-related questions. They will often have the rabbits' parents on site and if the rabbitry is small, they may have socialized babies. However, you can expect to pay a premium for these purebred rabbits.

Domestic rabbits purchased solely for companionship, as well as some of the more common breeds will cost considerably less than their pedigreed cousins. Be sure to choose a reputable pet store that provides optimum animal care and a knowledgeable staff. Ideally, caretakers should be able to tell you something about a rabbit's background and temperament. If it's critical to know a rabbit's personality beforehand, you might want to consider an older rabbit. Many shelters and rescue agencies have older rabbits available for adoption and volunteers who have spent time with the rabbits will be able to share information on each bunny's distinct personality. In addition, older rabbits are usually neutered and litter trained. Moreover, the shelter will most likely take back one that doesn't work out.

A Mere Rabbit Hole...or Wonderland?

Creating a "wonderland" for your rabbit doesn't have to be difficult or expensive, but it will require some planning and maintenance. Whether you choose to locate your bunny indoors or out, he needs protection from predators and extreme weather conditions. Outdoor hutches should be weatherproofed, surrounded by secure fencing and raised three to four feet off the ground. Regardless of its placement, the hutch should be well-ventilated, yet not drafty, and quiet, not isolated.

When he is fully grown, your rabbit should have enough room in its cage to stand up on his hind legs, stretch out and move around comfortably. The generally accepted rule for minimum cage volume (don't forget his height!) is four to five times your rabbit's adult size. Pens can be made or purchased in a variety of sizes and materials, the most common being heavy-gauge wire, plastic or wood. Each design has its advantages and disadvantages so the cage you choose should be a consideration of your unique rabbit's safety and your preference for cleaning and easy access. An excellent tutorial on this subject is provided by the Ontario Rabbit Education Organization.

The following is a list of some other items you'll need to include in the bunny's cage:

• Bedding can include such materials as stray, hay or newspapers, which should be replaced often as they become soiled. Wood shavings and cat litter are not recommended as they may cause medical problems if ingested. Your bunny may even like an old blanket to lie on or play with; however, caution should be used until you know what your bunny likes to chew on.
• A plastic cat-litter box or specially made rabbit-litter pan can be used with a natural litter, hay or another material recommended by your veterinarian or breeder. Clumping cat litter is not recommended as it may be swallowed or inhaled.
• Heavy ceramic food or water bowls or hanging racks. Many rabbits also like a nesting box within their larger cage. This can be as simple as an old shoebox, as long as he can "hide" when he feels the need.

When you first bring your new rabbit home, be patient. He'll need some time to adapt to and explore his new surroundings.

You Kwazy Wabbit!

Whether he lives indoors or out, your rabbit will need plenty of unrestrained playtime out of his cage. A small kitchen or bathroom serves as a good first play area as the absence of cushioned furniture and carpets make them easy rooms to "bunny proof." Bunnies can be somewhat mischievous, so you'll want to supervise your rabbit's safety and gradually expose him to other areas of your home as appropriate.

In addition to taking precautions to keep your bunny confined to his play area, here are some suggestions to protect both your rabbit and your possessions:

• Unplug, move or cover with hard plastic tubing, all exposed electrical and phone cords.
• Close all toilet seats. Introduce other pets cautiously until you're certain they will get along.
• Remove or place out of reach books, shoes, pillows, rugs, wastebaskets, etc.
• Cover any upholstered furniture with old sheets and blankets.
• Give your rabbit sticks or toys to chew on, old sheets or towels to dig in and make sure he has access to his litter box.
• Move out of reach any non-toxic household plants and remove all that are toxic. A list of plants toxic to rabbits is provided by Rabbit Advocates.
• Block off or cover favorite digging or chewing areas with Plexiglas or grass mats.
• Block off any tight spaces or hiding places where your rabbit could become stuck or injured; e.g., the underside of appliances or furniture.

Weather permitting, your rabbit will also enjoy the sunshine and fresh air of an outdoor run. In addition to securing the perimeter to keep your rabbit in, you'll also need to keep predators out, which might include place a top on the run. Just as any other space your rabbit occupies, he'll need access to food, water and protection from inclement weather and temperature extremes.

Dangling a Carrot

By nature, rabbits are herbivores; they feed primarily on grass and leafy plants. When you adopt a rabbit, however, it's important to continue to feed him his regular diet in order to avoid digestive upsets. Your veterinarian, rabbit breeder or pet-store staff should be able to help you determine what types and how much food to offer your rabbit as he grows. Should you need to change his diet or introduce new food, do so gradually.

Commercially prepared pellets manufactured specifically for rabbits, good quality hay and some fresh vegetables or fruit each day will keep your rabbit healthy and happy. Specially formulated rabbit pellets contain all the vitamins and minerals your bunny needs, while hay will provide roughage and help prevent furballs. Unlike cats, rabbits are unable to regurgitate and furballs can be fatal.

Some acceptable fruits and vegetables for your bunny include broccoli leaves and stems, kale, sweet potatoes, greens, apples, carrots and parsley. A more comprehensive list can be found on the Rabbit Advocates Web site. In addition to these treats, some rabbits will also enjoy rolled oats or alfalfa cubes and might even benefit from chewing on an untreated apple limb or rabbit chews. Gnawing helps your rabbit keep his teeth trimmed to a reasonable length. Always check with your veterinarian or breeder before offering anything new to your rabbit.

It goes without saying that your rabbit should have fresh water available at all times. Some rabbits will prefer a sipper bottle to a bowl, however, both will need to be refilled and cleaned daily. (A note of caution with sipper bottles: make sure the ball returns to the tip of the tube after cleaning. If it gets stuck in the middle, your rabbit will be without water!)

What's Up Doc?

As with any domesticated animal, we can trace most of the rabbit's behavior to his wild ancestors. It comes as no surprise that rabbits, by nature, are diggers and burrowers. In the wild, a safe excavation for homes and birthing places can reach three feet in depth; so it will take your rabbit almost no time at all to ruin a carpet or dig a tunnel in your garden should he have the opportunity. Your best option is to supervise him closely and provide him safe alternatives to fulfill his natural tendency to dig.

Rabbits are also instinctively very clean and can be found grooming themselves as often as cats do. Their propensity for cleanliness is what causes rabbits to choose only one spot in their hutch to relieve themselves. You may also notice your rabbit "cleaning" his self-made toilet by eating his "cecotrophes," the softer, more irregularly shaped stools. These droppings are packed with vitamins and fiber and are necessary to the rabbit's well-being.

Since rabbits have no natural defenses, they can be quite edgy creatures. Should one in the wild sense danger, he will thump his hind legs to alert others in the warren. Your bunny will do the same if he feels threatened. Rabbits are easily traumatized and they can actually die from anxiety or fright. Providing a safe haven (a nest inside an enclosure) for him at all times allows him an escape and may even save his life. It's important to protect your rabbit from what he perceive as danger, whether it truly is or not. Dogs, cats, other pets and people (especially rambunctious children) can make him panic. Make sure your family members remain calm around your bunny, as he will sense their mood. Introduce him to family members gradually until he learns they are trustworthy. And if you opt for more than one bunny, two males will most likely fight with one another in confinement. One of each gender is the best combination.

A rabbit depends mostly on his nose for sensing things. He'll learn to recognize you, other family members and other pets by your own unique scents, shapes and voices. You may have to begin your relationship with your bunny by simply talking quietly to him several times a day while not forcing any direct contact. He'll let you know when he's ready to interact, and perhaps even be stroked. Pet him gently on the head or back and don't offer your hand to his nose as you would a dog. Your rabbit has a blind spot directly in front of his nose and he's apt to bite your hand. Spending regular time with your bunny will accelerate the bonding process, and although most rabbits prefer not to be held, you may be able to train yours to trust you if you start slowly and hold him frequently at a young age. For all their strength, however, particularly in their hind legs, rabbits can be very fragile. Knowing how to pick them up properly is imperative, as rabbits can easily break their backs if handled improperly. Use one hand to support his chest and the other to support your rabbit's hind end. Bring him close to your body and allow him to bury his nose in the crook of your arm in order to feel secure. Don't attempt to carry or hold a rabbit that does not want to be held and never pick a rabbit up by the ears!

Holding, observing and grooming your rabbit daily will make it easier for your to monitor any changes in his well-being. The most common health concerns for rabbits include overgrown teeth, foot problems and digestive and respiratory upsets. Serious problems that require immediate veterinary attention are diarrhea, labored breathing, loss of appetite or head tilt. Proper housing, diet and grooming, however, will greatly reduce the chances of your rabbit developing a serious illness. Spaying and neutering is also recommended in order to prevent certain types of cancers and undesirable territorial behaviors, such as aggressiveness and spraying. Take the time to know your rabbit well and consult your veterinarian regularly to keep your rabbit happy.

The Velveteen Rabbit

Rabbits are friendly, energetic and entertaining. They need daily interaction and playtime with caretakers or other rabbits. If given the proper attention, most rabbits can become good companions. In addition, they are available in enough breeds, colors and hair variations to suit almost any preference. Despite their generally quiet nature, rabbits are not recommended for young children, particularly as Easter pets. The House Rabbit Society states, "Children like a companion they can hold and cuddle. That's why stuffed animals are so popular. Rabbits are not passive or cuddly. They are ground-loving creatures who feel frightened and insecure when held or restrained. The result: the child loses interest, and the rabbit ends up neglected or abandoned. Humane organizations such as the House Rabbit Society see a huge increase in the number of abandoned rabbits after Easter. Help us stop this yearly cycle by educating yourself and others."

A rabbit needs as much attention and care as a dog does. If, after researching the species and the breed thoroughly you're ready for the commitment, hop to it! If you're not ready, or have young children, you might want to try digging out that old copy of The Velveteen Rabbit. With time, you just may end up with a real rabbit in your life!